What to keep in mind when choosing the best climbing harness? How can we find our way around the many existing models? How to choose it well? All the answers are here.
The best climbing harness is very subjective. But what we are going to do in this article, is to give you the keys so that you can choose the harness that best suits your needs. In this way, you can buy the best one for you.
The harness is an essential element in the practice of climbing. It is essential for security. Before choosing your harness, you must define its use: indoor climbing, large roads, cliffs, ice, etc.
In fact, depending on the activity, the choice of harness can be based on different aspects. For example, if you stay in suspension for a long time, comfort is more essential than when you scale indoors. Similarly, if you are climbing ice and cliffs, an adjustable harness would be better, to adjust it according to the layers of clothing you are going to wear.
If you want to practice regularly, do not opt for a basic-level harness. This type of harness is intended for more casual use and is less comfortable.
In addition, we have made a very thorough market study, through which we have selected the best harnesses for climbing the market. Take a look, I’m sure you find it interesting.
Also, please read our other guides on the best camping kitchen, chairs, tripod stools, and Swiss Army knives.
What do you ask for a climbing harness?
The first benefit that is expected from a climbing harness is, of course, the safety it provides. Not only because it is he who will stop you in the event of a fall, but also because then you should not hurt yourself. Of course, this equipment, known as EPI (Personal Protection Equipment), are governed by strict standards that all manufacturers respect scrupulously.
In this case, the standard in question is the FN EN 12277, which guarantees, among other things, that the tape alone can withstand a load of 1000 kilos and retain 1500 kilos for several minutes. In any case, make sure that your harness has the CE certificate before any practice.
You should also know that your harness can meet the UIAA standard, the international safety equipment certification system, with requirements comparable to those in force in Europe. It includes as a notable difference that the seams must be of different colors for the whole team to better control the wear. But climbing is not falling! That is, your climbing harness will be with you the rest of the time. In other words, a climbing harness is required to be comfortable.
This is due, of course, to the thickness or material of its belts, to its adjustable or non-adjustable nature (see below), but also to the quality of its equipment carrier and, do not underestimate it, to its weight. The latter can vary from less than 100 grams to 500 grams or a little more. Remember that below 250, even 300, we stay in light equipment (of course, these are empty weights).
So do not forget this element when you buy: as soon as you leave a room to practice outdoor climbing, you will quickly understand their interest.
Also, read our reviews of the top climbing ropes.
How to choose a climbing harness?
The use
The different subdisciplines of climbing can take you to a harness model or another. Artificial wall climbers prefer more comfortable and practical models.
Sports climbers prefer models equipped with buckles for the equipment and are rather lightweight so as not to hinder the ascent.
Traditional climbers have larger equipment loops and optimized comfort. Finally, ice climbers need ice pick slots and adjustable leg straps.
Size and comfort
A well-adjusted climbing harness is an essential element to ensure the climber’s safety when climbing.
The belt is the most important element and it is important to select a model that does not slip from the hips of the climber if it is face down.
Beyond the safety aspect, a comfortable climbing harness is a way to ensure more enjoyable climbing sessions and faster progress.
It is also interesting to consider a breathable fabric to avoid excessive perspiration and a more padded model for comfort.
Ties for the legs
It is important that you pay attention to your feelings when you go up, some people prefer the buckles of the fixed legs, while others prefer the adjustable straps.
Most people prefer fixed loops that tend to be lighter and quicker to put on and take off.
The biggest problem with fixed leggings is that they do not adapt well to other morphologies.
If you do not feel comfortable with the fixed leggings, you should find your happiness with the much more universal adjustable leggings.
The adjustable leggings also allow more freedom to dress, whether you wear simple shorts or large winter clothes, you can adjust the legs to suit your needs.
Equipment carrier
Almost all climbing harnesses have team ties, which are actually the loops that are usually around the belt. The equipment transporters are used mainly for mountaineers outdoors and in height to install carabiners easily and quickly.
Having 4 loops of equipment is the minimum to go out to climb abroad, this will allow you to carry all the equipment you will need during your climb and get it back when you get off. If you know you have a lot of equipment to carry, I recommend you check harnesses with reinforced buckles and larger than average.
The weight
As you can imagine, the weight of the climbing harness is one of the most important factors in climbing. Everything you bring with you, you will have to support during your ascent.
Most times climbers want to save as much weight as possible and the choice of a lightweight harness is more than logical. People who prefer very light harnesses are often competitive and want to improve their performance by all means. However, if you are starting to climb, I advise you to favor the comfort of the weight.
Men and women
By quickly reviewing the tests I have previously provided, you have noticed that for each harness I also offer a female model, but why make different models?
There is a good reason for this: the distance between the buckles of the legs and the waist is higher in female models because women generally have a thinner waist and they use their harnesses above the hips. Therefore, women with a lower center of gravity than men should rebalance the harness for optimum comfort.
Maintenance of climbing harness
Your climbing harness is one of the most important elements for your climbing safety. You should be able to count on it without any other backup plan, so it is important that you keep your
equipment properly. Find out about the instructions on the model you purchased and check your status before each trip to find out when it needs to be changed.
The different elements that make up a climbing harness
Here is a little more detail about how a harness is made:
The belt
Adjustable, closed by one or two metal buckles, is connected, at the center of gravity, to the straps that will surround your thighs.
The trigger safety
Simple or double, connect the belt to the straps of the legs, allowing greater freedom of movement.
The accessories
Loops with mountaineering pins, rear loop to hang the bag if desired, and lifting ring to hold a connecting rope.
The accessories are many and varied and depend entirely on your practice or next expedition.
Short with suspenders or torso?
The torso harness, that is, the addition of a belt to the chest, was long the favorite of climbers.
However, it is not recommended today because, changing the anchor point of the body in relation to the center of gravity, is more likely to cause acceleration or violent movements in the event of a fall.
Therefore, the “suspender” system is recommended even in the case of mountaineering, especially since professionals will know it.
If necessary, for example, in the case of a long wait for the rescue and the risk of finishing face down, transforming a thigh harness into a torso with a strap and a carabiner.
However, torso harnesses may be useful for children or pregnant women with a higher center of gravity.
But do not go mountaineering with children and pregnant women without having your complete equipment validated.
Adjustable or not adjustable?
It’s time to study a little more in-depth the different adjustment parameters of your climbing harness. There are precisely 3 types of them:
It is not adjustable and is fixed to the thighs by an elastic band.
Adjustable, which has the possibility of fixing a few centimeters.
The adjustable ones, allow greater flexibility of adaptation to their morphology.
These are recommended in the case of regular practice and under different conditions.
In addition to providing a certain level of comfort, they can be adapted to various types of clothing or clothing to protect against the cold.
For a walk of several days, they are almost essential so that they always fit as much as possible to the different thicknesses of the clothes.
On the other hand, the use of non-adjustable elements should be avoided. Unless you are a beginner and plan to practice only in a club for a while.
Here, the time of use is limited, as well as the diversity of climatic conditions and, therefore, the ways of dressing.
The adjustable ones are used more frequently for the intermediate skill levels.
They offer a certain comfort and their adjustment possibilities are largely sufficient for climbing (unlike mountaineering).
They are also faster and more precise, which will be noticeable over time.
Our opinion and tips for choosing a climbing harness
You will have understood, the perfect climbing harness does not exist, everything depends on your practice.
Not only if you plan to use it mainly indoors or outdoors, but also, in the latter case, the frequency of your outings and the types of landscapes and challenges you want to enjoy.
Therefore, it is very easy to find good and cheap climbing harnesses, especially if you do not plan to practice hard or risky climbing.
The best way to buy a climbing harness is probably to start with a small, lightweight model, not necessarily adjustable, if you are about to start climbing and your first lessons.
This will be enough for this type of practice. It will allow you to familiarize yourself with your own criteria.
Do you prefer your side or front and back equipment carriers? and define more precisely the type of wall you want to climb in the future and, therefore, the type of harness that is most suitable for you.
Never forget this: the best climbing harness to buy is the best for you and your practice.
What we have to take into account!
Do not practice outdoor solo climbing without a serious pre-workout in the gym, and only after speaking with your teacher.
As for your equipment, check that it is well equipped with the CE standard that will guarantee its solidity in the test of your practice …. And does not forget your helmet.
Then remember the good practice, the belt is tightened above the hips, and the thigh straps, when not in suspension, of course, must have some game (must be able to pass two fingers between the strap and leg).
This last point is important: a harness climbed too tight on the legs could cut blood circulation in the thighs.
Also make sure, of course, that your harness is in an upright position (trigger guard on the front of the body, elastic on the back) and, above all, that your belt makes several turns on its buckle if it is not automatic.
Finally, do not forget to check with your partner the 4 points of the harness, the rope, the safety brake and the knot at the end of the rope. Remember that you are responsible for your actions and your safety!